Behaviour

It’s no wonder dwarf rabbits are so popular as pets. They are cute, clever, and active at the same time and can become quite trusting. Then they also love to be petted.

By the way: the wild ancestors of dwarf rabbits lived together in large colonies. Dwarf rabbit therefore feel most comfortable in the company of conspecifics.

The first hours in the new home

The dwarf rabbit hutch should be completely set up before you introduce the rabbit. Especially in the first days it is important to disturb the rabbit as little as possible so that it can get used to its new environment in peace. If two animals have to get used to each other, proceed carefully, and watch the animals closely as they get to know each other.

How to tame dwarf rabbits

Dwarf rabbits are highly sociable by nature and easily become trusting. With a little patience, you will quickly gain your animal’s trust. From the beginning, you should always talk to it in a calm, friendly tone – including when calling its name. After a few days, once the dwarf rabbit has settled in, you can gradually accustom it to the human hand: The best way to lure it is with a treat (e.g. Drops). In this way, it will gets used to the smell of your hand and will soon like to be stroked.

The basics of nutrition

Rabbits originated in the “green zones” of southern Europe. There, the herbivores found a rich food supply: seeds, various grasses, herbs, fruits, and berries.

In order for our dwarf rabbits to feel good and stay healthy and fit, they need a diet that is tailored to their specific needs.

The nutritional concept of Vitakraft takes into account the nutritional requirements of dwarf rabbits in an optimal way: All nutrients and nutritive substances are contained in the right amounts, and the animals get everything they need for a long and healthy life (e.g. a high crude fibre content, minerals, fruits, greens, and vitamins). Of course, the flavour is not neglected either! A combination of different Vitakraft products also offers the animals important variety.

The feed types:

Main feed: A main feed (e.g. Menü Vital) covers the basic nutritional needs of the rabbits.

Roughage:

Roughage has a high fibre content, which is important for the rabbit’s digestion. Because these fibres also require long chewing, the teeth are cared for, and the animals are kept busy. Roughage includes Vita Verde^® Alpine meadow hay or Vita Verde® organic herbal hay mixtures with dandelion or chamomile.

Kräcker^®:

The tasty nibble sticks fulfil several functions at once: The animals have to work out their food – just like in nature. This helps fight boredom and keeps the dwarf rabbits busy in a manner appropriate to their species. The nibbling of the hard Kräcker^® also promotes the abrasion of the constantly growing teeth and thus supports dental care.

Treats:

Snacks such as Drops serve primarily as a reward and are a valuable aid in taming and habituation.

Food supplements:

Food supplements such as VITA Fit^® Vitamin C drops or VITA Fit^® C-forte serve to strengthen and nourish the animal. They cover the special needs in certain life situations (e.g. during growth, after illness, in particularly active animals, and during pregnancy)

Tips for feeding:

• Feed smaller portions several times a day
• Feed a varied diet
• Add fresh hay to the rack every day.
• Always provide fresh drinking water or offer VITA Fit^® Aqua Drink Rodent
• Provide succulent feed (i.e. vegetables, herbs, and fruit) daily. Carrots, carrot greens, dandelion, and bell peppers are ideally suited
• Remove wilted juice feed remnants
• For dental care, always offer something to nibble on (e.g. Kräcker^®) and plenty of hay

Movement is fun

Dwarf rabbits love to move and need enough “play space” for themselves in their home. The rabbit hutch should therefore be large enough to allow some jumping and “manoeuvring”. Daily exercise is also important for the health and vitality of dwarf rabbits: They like to run and jump around in a secured garden or in your home. There is a lot to explore and discover. You should therefore definitely stay with them and pay attention.

Cleaning the rabbit hutch

Depending on the size of the rabbit hutch and the number of animals, all litter is removed once or twice a week, the cage floor and the toilet corner are wiped out with a damp cloth, and new litter added. The feed bowl and drinking trough must be washed out regularly with hot water. Once a month, a major cleaning is required: The cage, including the mesh top, is sprayed off with warm water in the bathtub. But please never use harsh household cleaners.

Grooming and health care

Dwarf rabbits are generally quite clean and keep their fur clean themselves. Therefore, only little time is required for grooming.

Fur

During the change of coat in spring and autumn, you should groom your dwarf rabbit with a (not too) hard brush from time to time and carefully pluck out loose hair. However, they do not like bathing and showering at all – and it would be harmful for the animals. Long-haired rabbits must be brushed regularly – and Angora rabbits even shorn.

Claws and teeth

Most rabbits kept indoors occasionally need to have their claws trimmed. This must be done rather carefully because nerve endings and blood vessels run in the claws and may not be injured. Your local pet shop or veterinarian will know how to do it correctly. The teeth should also be checked periodically. If there are any problems, your vet can help.

Dwarf rabbits are cute and generally low-maintenance pets that need a conspecific in order to feel truly comfortable. Before bringing a dwarf rabbit home, you should make some preparations. For a long and healthy life for your new pets, it is important that the dwarfs can settle in a well-equipped environment.

Check-list for the initial set-up:

• Sufficiently large dwarf rabbit hutch.
• Stable, washable food bowl (e.g. made of glazed ceramics)
• Hay rack for the daily hay ration
• Hay (e.g. Vita Verde^®)
• Rodent drinking trough with fresh water or VITA Fit^® Aqua Drink Rodent
• Little house for sleeping and resting
• Soft, absorbent bedding (e.g. small animal litter made of wood chips or Farmer’s straw litter made of pelleted straw)
• Salt lick for the supply of important minerals and trace elements (e.g. VITA Fit^® Sel-plus)
• Main feed (e.g. Vitakraft Menü Vital)
• Vitakraft Kräcker^® for occupation and tooth wear

Tips for buying dwarf rabbits

Dwarf rabbits can be bought in almost every pet shop or directly from a breeder. You can get the addresses of breeders at a rabbit breeding club, which exists in almost every city. Many animal shelters also have rabbits waiting for a new home.

When buying a young animal, it should be at least 7–8 weeks old. Please remember: Rabbits are social animals that want the company of other rabbits.

Healthy dwarf rabbits can be recognised by:

• their lively, alert behaviour
• a dense coat
• clear, bright eyes
• a dry nose
• clean ears
• a clean anal region

The right location for the dwarf rabbit hutch

The perfect place for a dwarf rabbit hutch is in a bright and quiet corner of the room. Bright sun or drafts can harm the animals. Because dwarf rabbits have a finer hearing than humans and perceive frequencies that we can no longer hear, the rabbit hutch should not be placed near television sets and other loud devices.

In summer, dwarf rabbits also like to live in a protected outdoor enclosure (e.g. on a sun-protected balcony or in a shady spot in the garden). To keep them safe from curious cats, the enclosure should be covered with wire mesh. Downward security must also be provided – because rabbits dig tunnels!

Behaviour

In nature, wild guinea pigs live together in a herd. They are used to this way of life and feel safe and happy that way. Guinea pigs therefore love – and need – the company of conspecifics.

Female guinea pigs get along especially well. But keeping two or more bucks or neutered bucks is also no problem. As long as they are used to each other and there are no females around, rivalry will generally not break out. Keeping a small group of one neutered male and two or more females is especially popular with guinea pig lovers. If you keep a group or pair with an unneutered buck, you should expect plenty of offspring. Bucks should therefore better be castrated by a veterinarian.

Guinea pig language

The complex social behaviour of guinea pigs can be seen in the different sounds they make. These range from quiet cooing to loud whistling and chirping to cat-like purring. In the guinea pig community, each sound has its own meaning. A loud, joyful whistle is often use to greet humans.

The first days in the new home

Especially in the first few days after arriving in their new home, guinea pigs need a little rest in order to get to know their unfamiliar surroundings. Depending on how brave the animals are, they will sooner or later take a close look at everything.

When the little rodents feel really at home, you start to establish contact: The easiest way to do this is to lure the guinea pigs with a treat (e.g. Drops or fragrant dandelions). When doing this, speak in a soft voice, and avoid hasty movements. It is also important not to grab the animal at first. Then it should not take long until the animals like to have their heads scratched and later let themselves be picked up without fear.

The basics of nutrition

Guinea pigs originally came from grassy plateaus in South America. However, they have been kept as pets for several thousand years.

Two factors in particular are essential for the diet of guinea pigs: A high crude fibre content and sufficient vitamin C because unlike other animals, guinea pigs cannot synthesise this vitamin themselves.

In order for our guinea pigs to feel good and stay healthy and fit, they need a diet tailored to their specific needs.

The nutritional concept of Vitakraft takes into account the nutritional requirements of guinea pigs in an optimal way: all nutrients and nutritive substances are contained in the right amounts, and the animals get everything they need for a long and healthy life (e.g. a high crude fibre content, minerals, fruits, greens, and vitamins). Of course, the flavour is not neglected either! A combination of different Vitakraft products also offers the animals important variety.

The feed types:

Main feed:

A main feed (e.g. Menü Vital) covers the basic nutritional needs of guinea pigs.

Roughage:

Roughage has a high fibre content, which is important for the digestion of guinea pigs. Because these fibres also require long chewing, the teeth are cared for, and the animals are kept busy. Roughage include Vita Verde^® Alpine meadow hay or Vita Verde^® Nature plus hay mixtures (e.g. with dandelion or wild rose).

Kräcker^®:

The tasty nibble sticks fulfil several functions at once: The animals have to work out their food – just like in nature. This helps fight boredom and keeps the guinea pigs occupied in a species-appropriate manner. The nibbling of the hard Kräcker^® also promotes the abrasion of the constantly growing teeth and thus supports dental care.

Treats:

Snacks such as Drops serve primarily as a reward and are a valuable aid in taming and habituation.

Food supplements:

Food supplements such as VITA Fit^® Vitamin C drops or VITA Fit^® C-forte serve to strengthen and nourish the animal. They cover the special needs in certain life situations (e.g. during growth, after illness, in particularly active animals, and during pregnancy)

Tips for feeding:

• Feed smaller portions several times a day; hay must always be made available.
• Feed a varied diet
• Add fresh hay to the rack every day.
• Always provide fresh drinking water or offer VITA Fit^® Aqua Drink Rodent
• Provide succulent feed (i.e. fruit or vegetables) daily. Carrots, carrot greens, apples, and peppers are ideally suited
• Ensure a diet rich in vitamin C
• Remove wilted juice feed remnants
• For dental care, always offer something to nibble on (e.g. Kräcker^®) and plenty of hay

Species-appropriate keeping

Guinea pigs are social animals and need the company of conspecifics as well as a spacious home that offers enough room. Because running and romping together is important. But they also need some time apart.

Daily exercise indoors or in the garden is good for their health and increases their zest for life. However, for their own safety, guinea pigs should not be allowed to roam freely unsupervised.

Grooming and health care

Guinea pigs require little help for grooming because these small rodents are clean animals that groom themselves frequently. However, long-haired guinea pigs should be brushed regularly. However: Many short-haired guinea pigs also enjoy the additional stroking with a soft brush. However, a guinea pig should not be bathed unless the vet has prescribed it. Dirty fur is better removed with scissors and not water.

Claws

Most guinea pigs occasionally need to have their claws trimmed. Care must be taken not to injure the animal. A pet shop, breeder, or veterinarian will be happy to show you what to look for.

Cleaning the guinea pig cage

The litter in the guinea pig cage must be changed about twice a week depending on the size of the cage and the number of animals. The toilet corner must also be cleaned. The guinea pig home itself as well as the accessories (i.e. food bowls, hayrack) should also be cleaned regularly – preferably with warm water.

Once a month, a major cleaning is required. The whole guinea pig cage is then rinsed off in the bathtub or in the garden. However, harsh household cleaners may not be used. If necessary, heavy soiling can be cleaned with a hard brush, dish-washing detergent, and/or vinegar. After that, rinse everything well with clean water, and let it dry. Only then add clean small animal litter, and put the furniture back in place. This will keep the guinea pig cage hygienically clean.

Guinea pigs are highly social animals that should always be kept at least in pairs. With some preparation before acquisition and some time to get used to them, the little rodents quickly feel at home, become hand-tame, and greet their owners happily whistling.

Check-list for the initial set-up:

• Sufficiently large animal cage
• Stable, washable food bowl (e.g. made of glazed ceramic) or a practical automatic feeder for self-service
• Hay rack for the daily hay ration
• Hay (e.g. Vita Verde^®)
• Rodent drinking trough with fresh water or VITA Fit^® Aqua Drink Rodent
• Little house for sleeping and resting
• Soft, absorbent litter (e.g. small animal litter made of wood chips or Farmer’s straw litter made of pelleted straw)
• Salt lick for the supply of important minerals and trace elements
• Main feed (e.g. Vitakraft Menü Vital)
• Vitakraft Kräcker^® for occupation and tooth wear

Tips for buying guinea pigs

You can buy guinea pigs in almost every pet shop or directly from the breeder. You can get the addresses of breeders at breeding clubs, which exist in many cities. Many animal shelters also have guinea pigs waiting for a new home. When buying a young animal, it should be at least seven weeks old.

Healthy guinea pigs can be recognised by:

• their lively, alert behaviour
• a dense coat
• clear, bright eyes
• a dry nose
• a clean anal region

The right place for the guinea pig cage

It’s best to put the guinea pig cage in a bright, quiet place. Because guinea pigs do not tolerate drafts or heat, the cage should not be placed in the blazing sun or directly by the window.

In summer, you can also set up an outdoor enclosure in your garden or on your balcony. The enclosure should be covered with wire mesh in order to provide protection from dogs, cats, and birds of prey. It is also important to make sure that the animals are protected from wind, rain, and direct sunlight.

Behaviour

Golden hamsters are rather solitary animals. It is therefore recommended to keep them individually. Dwarf hamsters are usually a little more sociable. With them, it’s best to keep several animals in a rodent’s cage.

Hamster, the name is program

Hamsters are true artists when it comes to stockpiling or hoarding. Everything edible is stuffed into the cheek pouches and transported to the stores. This behaviour ensured its survival in its barren desert home. However, when keeping hamsters as pets, their cage must be regularly searched for perishable items such as fruit.

By nature, the hamster is a night owl and only really becomes active at dusk. During the day, it requires plenty of rest. When your hamster is awake, it is highly active – it climbs, runs around, and searches for food. They are then really a lot of fun to have around.

The new "family member"

In the first days, your hamster wants to be disturbed as little as possible so that it can settle in peacefully. The home should therefore be prepared before the arrival. When the animal has recovered from the exertions of transport, it will curiously explore its new surroundings and eagerly gather material for nest building.

Making friends with your hamster

Once the hamster has settled in a bit, you can start making first contacts. The best time for activity is in the evening, when the hamster becomes lively. The quickest way to gain its trust is to give it a treat (e.g. a Kräcker®) in the cage. After a short time, your hamster usually gnaws on it with pleasure and gets to know the smell of the human hand. Soon you can also pet it carefully.

The basics of nutrition

Hamsters originate from deserts and steppes, where there is often only a meagre supply of food. They are often out all night looking for suitable food: Plants, seeds, fruits, and insects. Hamsters require a certain amount of animal and vegetable proteins because these provide them with much-needed energy.

Hamsters are also particularly active animals and consume a lot of energy when running or climbing. In order to keep your little rodent fit and healthy, you need to provide it with a special diet with plenty of high-quality protein and vegetable fats. The species-appropriate nutrition concept of Vitakraft is precisely tailored to the special needs of hamsters and contains everything the animal needs for a long and healthy life.

The feed types:

Main feed:

A main feed (Menü Vital) covers the basic nutritional needs of hamsters.

Roughage:

Roughage has a high fibre content. Because this fibre requires long chewing, it also keeps the teeth clean and the animals busy. Roughage includes VitaVerde^® Alpine meadow hay or Vita Verde^® Nature plus hay mixtures with dandelion or chamomile.

Kräcker^®:

The tasty nibble sticks fulfil several functions at once: The animals have to work out their food – just like in nature. This is good against boredom and keeps the hamsters busy in a manner appropriate to their species. The nibbling of the hard Kräcker^® also promotes the abrasion of the constantly growing teeth and thus supports dental care.

Treats:

Snacks such as Drops serve primarily as a reward and are a valuable aid in taming and habituation.

Food supplements:

Food supplements such as VITA Fit^® Vitamin C drops or VITA Fit^® C-forte serve to strengthen and nourish the animal. They cover the special needs in certain life situations (e.g. during growth, after illness, or in particularly active animals)

Tips for feeding:

• Feed a varied diet.
• Offer succulent feed (i.e. fruit or fresh greens) daily
• Beware of mould: Regularly clean out the hoarded food supplies, and remove wilted greenery daily.
• Always provide fresh drinking water or offer VITA Fit^® Aqua Drink Rodent
• Hamsters constantly need something to nibble on (e.g. Kräcker^®) to support the abrasion of their incisors
• For the vital supply of minerals and trace elements, always hang a salt lick (e.g. VITA Fit^® Sel-plus from Vitakraft) in the hamster home

Species-appropriate keeping

As typical loners, hamsters generally do not value the company of conspecifics. Sometimes community keeping works well. But often even hamster pairs are interested in each only other during mating season and then go their separate ways again. If you have more than one hamster, you should at least have an alternative home so that the animals can be separated in the case of quarrels.

Especially gold hamsters are usually kept individually. That’s because they tend to be incompatible with each other. Dwarf hamsters are somewhat more sociable. With them, it’s best to keep several animals in a rodent’s cage.

Fur care

A short haired hamster doesn’t really need any help with grooming. However, long haired hamsters should have their fur checked regularly for dirt and matting and can also be treated with a soft brush. Important: Hamsters come from the dry desert and may not be bathed!

Cleaning the hamster cage

All cleaning work on and in the hamster home should be done in the evening when the hamster is awake. The water bottle and food containers are then cleaned with warm, clear water. The cage floor should be wiped out once a week with a damp cloth. The litter should also be completely renewed. Once a month, a major cleaning is required: The cage, including the mesh top, is sprayed off with warm water in the bathtub. But please never use harsh household cleaners.

As typical loners, hamsters generally do not value the company of conspecifics. It is important to keep the little rodents busy with activities. The hamster home should therefore be equipped with many climbing possibilities and a running wheel before the new hamster moves in.

Check-list for the initial set-up:

• Large cage with cross bars for climbing. Attention: the cross bars may not be too wide; otherwise, the hamster could slip through them
• Feed bowl for the grain food
• Rake for green food and hay
• Hamster drinker with fresh drinking water or VITA Fit^® Aqua Drink Rodent
• A salt lick for the important supply of minerals
• Running wheel for nightly training
• Sleeping house for a restful “daytime sleep”
• For nest building: hay and natural cotton material (e.g. Vita Verde^® and cuddly hamster bedding)
• Absorbent litter (e.g. small animal litter from Vitakraft)
• Main feed (e.g. Vitakraft Menü Vital)
• Vitakraft Kräcker^® for occupation and tooth wear

Tips for buying a hamster

Hamsters are available in almost every pet shop or directly from the breeder. Many animal shelters also have hamsters waiting for a new home. Because the small rodents are crepuscular, it is advisable to choose an animal in the late afternoon or early evening hours. The hamsters will then be awake and can be observed better. When buying a hamster, you should opt for one that is 4–5 weeks old. Tip: It is best to have the pet shop give you a little used nesting material directly from the sleeping house to put into the newly furnished hamster home. The familiar smell makes it easier for the hamster to settle in.

A healthy hamster can be recognised by

• its smooth and shiny coat
• its lively behaviour
• clear eyes
• a dry nose
• a clean anal region

This is the right place for the hamster cage

Hamsters sleep most of the day and therefore need a particularly quiet place. The location should be free from drafts and protected from bright sunlight. Hamsters also do not tolerate strong temperature fluctuations.

Hamster cage – a place of adventure

Hamsters are little acrobats. When furnishing the hamster home, there are no limits to your imagination – the important thing is that you satisfy your rodent’s passion for climbing. In addition to the crossbar of the rodent home, unsprayed branches or wooden ladders are well suited for this purpose. However, safety is always taken into account: Because if the hamster falls – and this happens often – its fall should be cushioned.

With loving handling, a chinchilla usually becomes hand-tame quite quickly and often learns to respond to its name. Especially for working people, chinchillas are ideal pets because they are crepuscular and are active only in the early evening. It’s then that the lively rodents show their amazing acrobatic skills. Daring climbing tricks and meter-high jumps from a standing position are “child’s play” for them. Important: During the day, the chinchilla has its natural resting time and should not be disturbed.

The new home

Some chinchillas settle in after a few days; others may need a little more time. In any case, you should give your new house-mate a lot of rest so that it can come to trust its new environment. By the way, chinchillas are naturally quite sensitive: noise, unfamiliar people, or hectic movements can frighten them or cause stress – even if the chinchilla doesn’t realise it straight away.

How to tame your chinchilla

When your chinchilla has settled into its new home, you start with the closer contact. Every evening, you can pass a treat through the bars and talk enticingly to the animal. A Kräcker® or even half a hazelnut is always well received. Only when the chinchilla has become accustomed to this way of feeding is the process repeated through the open door. If the chinchilla is no longer shy of your hand and curiously comes closer, you can carefully touch it. In any case, you should wait with lifting the chinchilla until the animal allows itself to be touched without fear. That’s because this requires both trust from the chinchilla and practice and empathy from the owner. First, carefully slide one hand under the chinchilla. With your other hand, hold the animal at the base of the tail so that it does not jump away. Important: The tail of the chinchilla is quite sensitive. You should therefore never grab or hold the end of its tail. The “neck grip” is also completely unsuitable for chinchillas because the animal would immediately lose its fur there.

Basics of species-appropriate nutrition

Chinchillas are adapted to the natural food supply of their homeland – the South American Andes. These are mainly low-nutrient and high-fibre plant foods, plants, grasses, roots, and bark as well as the occasional dry berries and fruits.

Chinchillas are pure herbivores. This means that they require a feed with a high crude fibre content. Hay and special main feed (e.g. pelleted green food like the Vitakraft Pellets) meet these requirements. Ideal supplement include dried herbs and a mineral stone. Chinchillas are passionate and powerful rodents. So a Kräcker® should always be present in the chinchilla home. They also like to gnaw on fresh twigs from fruit trees.

Types of feed

Main feed:

A main feed (e.g. Pellets or VITA^® Special) covers the basic nutritional needs of the chinchilla.

Roughage:

Roughage has a high fibre content, which is important for the digestion of chinchillas. Because these fibres also require long chewing, the teeth are cared for, and the animals are kept busy. Roughage includes Vita Verde^® Alpine meadow hay, Vita Verde® hay mixtures (e.g. with dandelion) and the Nature Snacks Vita Verde^® Nature Mix

Kräcker^®:

The tasty nibble sticks fulfil several functions at once: The animals have to work out their food – just like in nature. This helps fight boredom and keeps the chinchillas occupied in a species-appropriate manner. The nibbling of the hard Kräcker^® also promotes the abrasion of the constantly growing teeth and thus supports dental care.

Treats:

Delicious snacks with lots of vegetables and fruits (e.g. Vita Verde^® Nature Flakes) offer variety to small rodents and serve as a reward. They can be a valuable aid in taming and habituation

Food supplements:

Food supplements such as VITA Fit^® Mineral Stone or VITA Fit^® C-forte serve to strengthen and nourish the animal. They cover the special needs in certain life situations (e.g. during growth, after illness, in particularly active animals, and during pregnancy)

Tips for feeding

• Feeding time is always in the evening
• Hay should be available at all times
• Pay attention to the quantity of the main feed
• Daily fresh drinking water or VITA Fit^® Aqua Drink Rodent
• Continually provide gnawing material for the abrasion of the incisors (e.g. natural branches and Kräcker®)
• It’s best to give treats during exercise and when the animal is occupied
• For the additional supply of minerals and vitamins, give VITA Fit^® Mineral Stone
• Offer fresh fruit, nuts, or green fodder only in small quantities

Chinchillas need a spacious home where they can also jump. In addition, free running should be offered regularly – preferably daily – in order to satisfy the animal’s urge to move. But beware: their strong need to gnaw can also sometimes pose a risk to your furniture. They should therefore be supervised when allowed to run free.

Grooming and health care

Chinchillas are very clean animals with little odour of their own. They do not need direct assistance with grooming. However, there are a few things you should know and keep in mind:

Fur

In their natural habitat, chinchillas groom, clean, and degrease their fur by taking regular “baths” in fine sand. This is the only way to preserve the protective insulating layer of the silky soft fur. A daily sand bath (e.g. in SANDY from Vitakraft) is therefore essential for the health, beauty, and zest for life of your chinchilla.

As tempting as the soft fur may be, chinchillas find frequent stroking unpleasant because the natural oils on your hand sticks to its fur.

Teeth

The incisors of the chinchilla are constantly growing back. For the necessary abrasion, the animal therefore always needs something hard to nibble and gnaw (e.g. Kräcker® or twigs from unsprayed fruit trees). Hay also fulfils an important function in dental care because it must be chewed for a long time. In the case of problems with the teeth, you should consult your veterinarian.

The chinchilla cage

By nature, chinchillas are animals that love to move and jump. The rodent’s cage should offer plenty of room to run around and be as high as possible. For example, a flight aviary for small birds in which you install boards at different heights is suitable. However, when buying, make sure that the doors are large enough.

Furnishing the chinchilla home

Climbing and play opportunities belong in every chinchilla home. The bars of the cage must be sturdy so that the chinchilla cannot gnaw through them. Painted or plastic coated bars can harm the animal.

Location of the chinchilla home

Chinchillas sleep during the day and therefore need a quiet place. A bright, screened corner of the room is ideal. It is best to place the home at about chest height so that the animal is not startled by movements coming from above. The place should not be too warm; the ideal room temperature is about 18°C. Even in summer, the temperature should not be permanently above 25°C. Chinchillas do not tolerate draughts or bright sunlight.

Cleaning the chinchilla home

All care measures should take place in the evening, when the chinchilla is “up and about”. Several times a week, dirty hay as well as damp litter (also from the sleeping house) should be replaced. Once a week, a thorough cleaning is required. The drinking bottle, food bowls and sand bath tub must be thoroughly washed out, the cage floor must be cleaned with hot water, and the litter must be completely renewed. In addition, once a month, the climbing branches are washed with hot water and then dried well. Please never use harsh household cleaners!

Keeping the chinchilla in a species-appropriate way

The chinchilla would prefer to share its home with a conspecific. Keeping chinchillas is not species-appropriate because even in their natural habitat, they live together with several animals in a colony. A pair or two females that have grown up together get along especially well. Often two males also get along – as long as they do not compete for the favour of a female. Animals that are strangers to each other must be carefully accustomed to each other. When keeping a pair with an unneutered male, offspring must of course be expected.

Chinchillas are highly active rodents – and thus make really great pets. Anyone who is informed about the nature and the nature of the animals can offer chinchillas optimal living conditions with the right rodent’s cage, species-appropriate nutrition, and sufficient opportunities to occupy themselves. Therefore, before bringing your chinchilla home, you should make some preparations.

Check-list for the initial set-up

• Sufficiently large chinchilla home
• Stable, washable feed bowl
• Hay rack for the daily hay ration
• Drinking trough with fresh water or VITA Fit^® Aqua Drink Rodent
• Little house for sleeping and resting
• Thick natural branches, boards at different heights, and ladders for climbing
• For playing and important occupation: cardboard tubes, wooden see-saws, and the like.
• Rodent stone (e.g. VITA Fit^® Mineralstein) for the vital mineral supply
• Padding material (e.g. hay from the VitaVerde^® range) or fabric scraps
• Soft, absorbent litter (e.g. small animal litter made of wood shavings or Farmer’s straw litter made of pelleted straw)
• Main feed (e.g. Emotion^® Beauty Selection or Pellets)
• Vitakraft Kräcker^® for occupation and tooth wear

Tips for buying chinchillas

Chinchillas can be purchased at pet shops or directly from breeders. Many animal shelters also have chinchillas waiting for a new home. A chinchilla should be at least eight weeks old when you buy it. By the way, the best time to choose is late afternoon. That’s when the crepuscular rodents are well rested.

A healthy chinchilla can be recognised by:

• its lively behaviour (at the appropriate time of day)
• a uniformly dense coat with no bald patches
• dry and clean nose
• clear, shiny eyes
• smooth ear edges without scales or crusts
• healthy incisors: yellow-orange in colour and parallel to each other
• a clean anal region and firm oval shaped faeces

Just like nutrition, keeping rodents in a species-appropriate manner is a basic requirement for a long and healthy animal life. The most important factors are a large home and species-appropriate occupation such as exercise, climbing opportunities, the company of other rodents, and places to dig and burrow. The latter is especially important for rodent species that live in underground burrows in the wild.

Grooming

Many rodents take care of their own grooming. Regular cleaning of the rodent home – especially the feeding and toilet area – and, depending on the species, a sand bath or occasional brushing is usually sufficient.

Cleaning the rodent home 

Depending on the type of animal, the size of the cage, and the number of animals, the rodent’s cage is cleaned about once a week. The bedding should also be changed at this time. It’s also good to regularly clean the toilet area. The rodent’s cage itself as well as the furniture (i.e. food bowls, hay rack) are also cleaned regularly – preferably with warm water.

Once a month, a major cleaning is required. The entire rodent’s cage is then thoroughly washed out. However, harsh household cleaners may not be used. If necessary, heavy soiling can be cleaned with a hard brush, dish-washing detergent, and/or vinegar. After that, rinse everything well with clean water, and let it dry. Only then add clean small animal litter, and put the furniture back in place. The rodent’s cage thus remains hygienically clean.

Rodents are spread all over the world in a large variety of species. They have adapted to the respective habitats in different ways. Many rodent species are already quite popular and well known as pets. Other rodents are only gradually gaining popularity. The important thing is: Every rodent has its own requirements for species-appropriate nutrition, occupation, and a rodent’s cage.

Check-list for the initial set-up

• Sufficiently large rodent’s cage
• Stable, washable feed bowl
• Rake for the daily hay ration
• Hay (e.g. from the Vita Verde^® range)
• Rodent drinking trough with fresh water or VITA Fit^® Aqua Drink Rodent
• Little house for sleeping and resting
• Soft, absorbent bedding (e.g. small animal litter made of wood chips or Farmer’s straw litter made of pelleted straw)
• Salt lick for the supply of important minerals and trace elements
• Main feed (e.g. Vitakraft Menü Vital)
• Vitakraft Kräcker^® for occupation and tooth wear

Tips for the purchase

Many animal lovers are already experienced in keeping hamsters or guinea pigs and, at some point, wish to try keeping other rodents. Such animals can be found at a responsible breeder or in a reputable pet shop. Many animal shelters or private emergency stations often have rodents waiting for a new home.

A healthy rodent can be recognised by

• its lively, alert behaviour (for nocturnal species, consider the time of day!)
• the dense fur
• clear, bright eyes
• a dry nose
• a clean anal region

Rodents such as rabbits or guinea pigs often feel most comfortable in groups. There should be at least one pair – preferably more.

Not all breeds are well-suited to staying outside permanently. You should definitely take that into account and find out in advance. Nevertheless, it is of course great for your rodents to spend the warm days in an outdoor enclosure.

This way, your rodents can choose for themselves whether they want to retreat or prefer to actively play with their fellow rodents. In any case, a privacy screen and shelter should be built. A cage should ideally have both a closed and open area. Preferably over several floors.

Drinking and feeding bowls should be distributed in the cage so that your rodents can easily reach them. Especially if they live in groups, it makes sense to place several of them. Above all, pay attention to the cleanliness and hygiene of the feeding places so that no germs can settle.

Many rodent breeds are cleaner than you think. They often only do their business in one corner of the cage and can therefore be allowed to explore your home under supervision. In any case, you should make your home safe for small animals beforehand so that nothing can be gnawed on. This could prove to be hazardous.

It’s best to equip the enclosure with a few elements that will keep your pets busy. For example, elevated resting places, roots, branches, stairs, see-saws, and running wheels. Or try a course through the room. This will keep both you and your rodent busy.